I forgot how much I loved Saint Petersburg. But I discovered something new, too. In the four years I’d been away, Saint Petersburg has become hipster.
My recent Russia trip marked my first visit back to Saint Petersburg since 2011, when I spent almost six months living there. This time round, I immediately found myself falling in love again with everything I’d missed – the beautiful European architecture, the bustling Nevsky Prospekt and the long summer nights.
I never really thought of Saint Petersburg as being a very cool city – that title seemed to be jealously protected by Moscow – but it seems like Russia’s second city has caught up.
So the celebrate the city’s new-found cool edge, here is the ultimate alternative guide to St. Petersburg.
Read more: First-time guide to Moscow
Hipster hotspots in St. Petersburg
Gorokhovaya Street (улица Гороховая) was the epicentre of all things hipster on my latest trip to St. Petersburg. The street is one of the original three radial roads, stretching from the Admiralty south to Zvenigorodskaya. Between the Admiralty and Griboyedov Canal, there are no end of cool bars, small restaurants and cosy cafes.
Dumskaya Street (улица Думская) is a great area for cheap bars. Popular with students, the street is home to a number of long-standing alternative dive bars where a shot of vodka will only set you back 100 roubles – that’s around £1.10 or €1.50. Dumskaya is also home to Central Station, Saint Petersburg’s gay club.
Off the beaten track in St. Petersburg
Also check out: 5 beautiful churches in St. Petersburg you can’t miss
Rooftop tours – To experience the latest craze in Saint Petersburg, you have to take to the rooftops. Over the past year or so, this Russian-take on parkour has boomed in the city, with countless Instagram accounts from resident adrenaline junkies showing off the city from new angles. (Try Boltenkov for a taster.) But if you want to get in on the fun, there are plenty of Rooftop Tours available, too. We didn’t do one so I can’t vouch for the safety of the tours, but there were signs everywhere to advertise this latest trend.
Check out this article from The Guardian for more information.
ETAGI Loft Project – Arguably the city’s premier hipster hangout, ETAGI Loft Project is an all manner of things rolled into one: in one building you can find an art gallery, an exhibition space, a hostel and a café. The venture has been going for some years now and while we didn’t manage to squeeze in a visit on my recent trip, the open bright Green Room Café was a popular choice while I was studying in the city. The scheme seems to have gone from strength to strength and now regularly holds events and concerts.
Metro: Ligovskiy Prospekt | Лиговский Проспект
Zayachiy Island (Заячий остров) – When the weather is good, head over to Zayachiy Island, home of the Peter and Paul Fortress. Here you’ll find the city beach and a small park area, which is bustling with cool young people and families whenever the sun is out.
Metro: Gorkovskaya | Горковская
Yelagin Island (Елагин остров) – Another option is Yelagin Island, a park island popular with rollerbladers and cyclists. You can even take to the island’s lake in a rowing boat.
Metro: Krestovksiy Island | Крестовский остров
Cool restaurants & cafes in St. Petersburg
If you’re looking for somewhere to eat in St. Petersburg, then your best bet is Gorokhovaya, where you’ll find plenty of restaurants and burger bars.
Candies by Coffee Room (ul. Gorokhovaya 11) is home to possibly the best Full English Breakfast I’ve had outside of the UK (take note, Germany). Candies is a cosy little café which serves up great breakfasts and decent mains. Part of the Coffee Room franchise.
I’m Thankful for Today (ul. Gorokhovaya 24) is another popular Coffee Room hangout, occupying a cosy little corner on the Griboyedov Canal. The interior is very shabby chic, with window booths, a long central table and mismatching chairs. The Big Burger is delicious.
Zoom Bar (ul. Gorokhovaya 22) is a cosy café on Gorokhovaya that serves up great light bites. Zoom is a popular place so be prepared to wait for a table. The exterior is now a colourful green garden brightening up the street.
Clean Plates Society (ul. Gorokhovaya 13) looks a bit like a nightclub at first glance (how many restaurants have a mirror ball?) but inside you’ll find a relaxed restaurant-cum-bar with a small but appetising menu and lots of Bohemian charm. A good place for dinner and drinks.
Alternative bars & clubs in St. Petersburg
St. Petersburg has plenty of great bars to choose from over a few different neighbourhoods, so take your pick. Za zdrovye!
Craft Brew Café (Malaya Morskaya ul, 15)
One of the most surprising finds on our trip was Craft Brew Café, a mere stone’s throw from our hostel. The chic bar has a large selection of both foreign and domestic beers and ciders, with an extensive array of options from Saint Petersburg. The staff weren’t particularly knowledgeable about their drink selection but if you know what you want, it’s a great place to go. There is also a decent-looking food menu.
Dacha – ul. Dumskaya 9
A stalwart on the cheap student scene and infamous with local expats, Dacha is a typical dive bar with a decent atmosphere. Though lively most nights of the week, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays are the best.
Fidel – ul. Dumskaya 5
Two doors down from Dacha, Fidel offers a more extensive menu and a more exciting atmosphere, though it definitely exudes the same more-shabby-than-chic charm. We went on a Thursday and there was a DJ playing anything from techno to S Club 7.
Mod – Griboyedov Canal 7
Another old haunt we couldn’t revisit, Mod is a cool but pricey club during the winter, which opens up a lovely rooftop terrace with BBQ in the summer. Entrance to the terrace was free on my last visit, though this may have changed. The perfect place to enjoy the white nights.
Hipster hostels in St. Petersburg
Though it lacks the choice of Moscow, St Petersburg is home to some great hostels.
Simple Hostel is where I stayed most recently in St. Petersburg. Located directly on Gorokhovaya, the hostel is right in the heart of the city’s historic centre and in a prime location for checking out the bars and restaurants listed above. The hostel was small but welcoming with modern bathrooms and handy storage.
Soul Kitchen – a design-led hostel with hipster-friendly interiors and fantastic reviews. I’ve never stayed here but I have heard good things and the website makes it look lovely.
Would you visit Saint Petersburg as a hipster?
Comment below!
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I am no hipster for sure but really like the look of St Petersburg, Russia is definitely calling me – wish the visa’s were a bit cheaper though!
If it weren’t for the visas, I think Russia would see countless tourists! Saint Petersburg is definitely worth the wait though. If you ever need visa help, let me know!
Wow, you actually made Piter look cool! Who would have thought that possible… (But hey, as long as you’re referring to it Russia’s “second city,” we can still be friends 😉 )
Haha, I was as surprised as you by the hipster scene, trust me! The great thing about Moscow and St. Petersburg is how different they are: too hard to compare!
I loved St Petersburg and I totally annoyed myself by cutting a day off of a 3 day stay by being so fundamentally hungover from the overnight train from Lithuania! What a wasted day that was, however if I had to be hungover anywhere Soul Kitchen was the perfect place, it’s amazing!
I’m not in anyway Hipster, but this is a great list and I’d absolutely use it when I ever went again, cheers dude!
Soul Kitchen sounds like a great place – will have to aim for there next time 😀 And what are night trains for if not copious drinking???
Ugh, hipsters! 😛 But St Petersburg looks very nice and that rooftop tour sounds great! I wanted to do a rooftop tour in Stockholm but it was super expensive 🙁
At least the one in Stockholm would be safer… I was definitely not going to do one in SPB! The pics I’ve seen look amazing though.
Wow, I never realized St. Petersburg can be a hipster city:)) Always saw it as a city of emotinally intelligent people and culture:) It has been on my go-to list for a while, with your description, I am even more sure I need to discover it soon:)
It surprised me, too! But I think it’s great when a city can offer both high culture and bohemian hangouts.
Would never have put hipster and St Petersburg together, guess you find out new things everyday 🙂 WOuld love to visit someday!
It’s a great city – hope you make it there soon, Samiya!
Have never thought of this as a hipster place, but it sounds very cool to visit (even though I don’t know if I’ll be on trend enough to fit in!)
Haha, if I managed it Sarah, I’m sure you can too!
Me and my husband are planning a trip to Russia soon! After reading this post I am even more excited! That meal looks so delicious.
Glad to hear it, Clarissa! Where abouts are you going in Russia? You have absolutely picked the right time to go!
I loved visiting Russia. Saint Oetersburg has definitely changed since the last time I was there haha!
In changed a lot in just the four years since I had been there last, too. Will be interesting to go back in another few years I think!
SPb is top cool. I was happy to find Zoom on your list 🙂 the city’s crazy about everything that can be related to hipster – books (secondhand bookstores are numerous and awesome), affordable vintage and antique stuff, fun things to eat (check Vkusnye Schtuchki with their fancy artisanal ice cream next time!), a fabulous flea market and lots of kinda secret places. My fav guide for rooftops and paradnayas is Roman Vezenin, you can easily find him on fb. =)
Thanks for the tips Kate! I thought it looked like Petes had had a hipster invasion when I went back last year! It certainly gives the place a new nice energy though, which I really liked. Hopefully the scene will stick around for a while longer!